12/7/2023 0 Comments Show and pro paint and bodyAlways use Nitrile Gloves to touch bare metal. The natural oils on your skin will get sucked in to the porous metal and can cause paint problems later. After the vehicle and sheet metal have been media blasted be careful NOT TO TOUCH ANY OF THE BARE METAL WITH YOUR HANDS. That makes for a finished car that can rattle, whistle, leak and give you headaches later. When a car body is chemical dipped it removes all the seam and anti-flutter sealant between the panels that the factory put in and you will never be able to get it back in there. Most will use either walnut shells or plastic media on the outside sheet metal parts so they don’t warp the thin metal. They might use aluminum oxide for heavy duty items like K-Frames and then maybe a mix of garnet and walnut shells for the floor boards. Often times the experienced blasters will use a combination of materials depending on what they are blasting. You might consider having them blast the K-Frame too unless you have a large blast cabinet and can do it yourself. Get the body, hood, doors, deck lid, fenders and valances media blasted. Most restoration and hot rod shops in your area will tell you who the good media blasters are and who to avoid. Ask for a list of customers that have had sheet metal car bodies blasted so you can contact them and confirm it. If you ask any blaster if he can blast sheet metal without wrapping it, they will all say yes. Overworking the area with aggressive material can cause warping. Warping is caused by the excessively heavy compression force of the abrasive media hitting the sheet metal surface. The key is to find someone that has blasted a lot of sheet metal and will be sure not to warp the metal. Most major cities have a good reputable blaster that does a lot of vehicles and knows how to blast sheet metal. Everything needs to be media blasted, inside and out. The media blaster will not be able to remove those so you have to do it first. Remove all the seam sealer and undercoating too. If you take something out of a tote be sure to cross it off the label. Use tape to make labels for the totes and write what is inside each tote. Storing items in totes is a good way to free up garage space. That way you can always go back and look at the photos to see where it was installed. If you do not know what something is, take a photo of it installed and write the photo number on the bag or tag. Take photos of everything and then take more photos. Bag and tag each part even if you know what it is or think you will remember later. If you are starting with a completely assembled car you need to remove everything. Never ever trust previous bodywork no matter how good anyone tells you it is. STEP #1 Media Blast = You must start with clean bare metal. Step 15 = Cut & Buff (block 1000 to 5000 & buff) Step 13 = Block Clear Coat (Block 600 or 800) Step 11 = Basecoat (do test spray outs first) Step 9 = High Build Epoxy Primer (4 coats, Block to 400) Step 5 = Metal Work (Rust repair and Panel replacement) Here are all the steps and products needed to achieve a paint job that will win shows and amaze your friends. Please share your knowledge by contributing to the forum. Therefore, I am grateful for any comments, tips and advice you may be able to offer me as there’s many ways to get fantastic results. It might be pretentious to mention a professional, but the reason for this is that a fully accomplished professional painter does not exist. I’m going to share with you the exact steps you can take to paint a show car and some tips and tricks I’ve learned on how to get the highest quality mirror-like paint job. Regardless if you are a hobbyist or professional, if you pay meticulous attention to the details a show car paint job is not as unobtainable as you might think. When a person looks at a car and says “WOW” out loud, 90% of the time it’s because of the paint. Nothing says quality restoration better than a high quality paint job. Step by Step guide to painting a Show Car
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